On the Autumn/Winter runways traditional looks were twisted, shaken and subverted to create a trend that felt truly modern. Plundering the past for inspiration, designers mashed up military detailing with country garb and ladylike chic to great visual effect. At Marc by Marc Jacobs the visionary designer showed his signature irreverence by sending out debutante bags and print dresses mixed with big-buttoned great coats, check capes, drummer boy hats and bovver boots. At Burberry Christopher Bailey took the hunting, shooting, fishing feel further with his Town and Field collection featuring tweed flat caps, herringbone jackets lined in shearling, waxed cotton parkas and shirts embroidered with sparrows, owls and dogs. At Acne quilted jackets got edgy with suede patches, whilst over at Miu Miu there was more of a crazed vintage feel with grandad checks, wallpaper prints, clashing ascots and frilly ties.

This look, often shown with stealthily luxe hair and aristocratic lit-from-within skin is undisputedly feminine, without ever being staid or saccharine.

From Carnaby Street to Camden Town via the left bank and Warhol’s NYC Factory, this season’s nod to the iconic 60’s was multifaceted, but always with a young, cool edge. Strong, streamlined runway looks referenced the silhouettes of Courreges, Paco Rabanne and Cardin, with slim cigarette pants cropped above the ankle, sleek A-line shifts and structured Quant-esque tunics. Colours were monochrome, pastel or unapologetically bright.

Like the world’s business leaders, fashion designers are looking East for inspiration. Proenza Schouler kick-started the trend with inspiration running from karate and kimonos to Yoko Ono circa 1970. Their standout collection featured brocade, beautiful bird embellishments, quilted oriental silks and stiff martial art shapes. Fellow Manhattanite Zac Posen’s take was more glamorous with models sporting shiny tight top knots, peony jacquards, Tokyo reds and carrying pagoda shaped minaudieres. Over the Atlantic designers took a more esoteric approach. Dries Van Noten plundered London’s Victoria & Albert museum for Japanese, Chinese and Korean iconography and seduced stylists with the resulting digital prints.

This season fashion writers from across the globe were furiously scribing ‘androgynous, futuristic, powerful, strong’ and ‘definite Rooney Mara influence’ in their Smythson notebooks. Black, black, black and with a hint of black was the colour palette for this trend, with strict, sharp lines echoing the edgy vibe.