- TEXT BY Angel Chou
- POSTED 2016/01/01
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4天的倫敦秋冬時裝週,時尚界屏息以待最新的男士潮流,經手九屆倫敦時裝週的男士造型,TONI&GUY外景造型團隊從五場時裝秀中整理出2016秋冬男士趨勢-經典英倫風情的紳士裝扮依然當道,透過微微捲髮打造隨興不羈的浪漫灑脫更是時尚雅痞的最愛。
Having completed a ninth season backstage, the TONI&GUY session team unleashed their talent across a number og AW16 shows at London collections: Men. Held over four exciting days where all eyes were focused on what menswear has to offer next season.
時裝品牌E. TAUTZ的設計師Patrick Grant在最新的秋冬作品中大量採用復古元素,以1980年代愛丁堡Tollcross大道上溜冰鞋舞廳作為背景,在服裝和髮型上都充分的體現了那個「男孩們頂著蓬蓬爆炸頭、帥氣的駕馭著輪式溜冰鞋,極盡所能吸引女孩目光」的年代。
髮型團隊的總監Kevin Luchmun表示,「1980的潮流重返時尚,帶回了頭髮自然的舞動感和青春無懼的氛圍!」因此在E. TAUTZ時裝秀的髮型設計上,Kevin選擇動態感十足的QQ捲髮,展現一點點誇張自負的男孩傲氣。
"Rewind to the 80's, natural bounce with a youthful feel." Head of Team, Kevin Luchmun
The latest collection from Patrick Grant – the man behind the critically acclaimed Saville Row tailored label, used the 'Coaster Roller Disco in Tollcross, Edinburgh in the mid-80s' as core inspiration. Hair followed suit - embodied with a look of health, volume and movement in plenitude, to echo 'boys who would do backwards crossovers to impress the girls with big hair.' Everything about this era embraced an underlining exaggeration - but always slick in attitude.
歷史悠久的男裝品牌Hardy Amies在秋冬時裝週上完美詮釋了帥氣的現代紳士,透過黑色與簡約線條,成就了最不凡的經典。髮型設計也延續了紳士的高雅情操,髮型總監Daniele de Angelis以經典紳士髮型為底,再用造型品將頭髮向側後梳攏,並增加光澤感,「簡約的高雅,就是現代紳士的最佳風格!」
"Classic simplicity, the signature of a modern stylish gentleman." Head of Team, Daniele de Angelis
One of menswear's long established labels and the 'godfather' of Saville Row, Hardy Amies showcased what could only be called the 'reinvention of modern silhouettes that utilised block colours with clean lines.' Backstage the hair was an extension of the infl uence – creating a quintessential evening look, that's all about classic-cut styling, slicked right back and finished with a high-end shine.
Chester Barrie在時尚界有著現代裁縫師之稱,他設計的男裝既華麗又沉穩,經典的西裝剪裁讓男模都化身成了James Bond,「電影明星與現代紳士的相遇」髮型總監Kevin Luchmun如此形容,霧面的自然質感,不會搶走服裝風采,卻又能凸顯出眾氣質,彷彿每一位模特兒都是走在紅毯上、正要出席電影首映的明星一般。
"Movie star meets modern gentleman." Head of Team, Kevin Luchmun
Known as the 'modern tailor', Chester Barrie's collection is a celebration of all that's a little bit 'glamorous' in the world of menswear - classic looks resurfaced as sparkle and modernity. A collection for men who need to look their best.' Hair evolved around the inspiration of an actor going to a red carpet movie premiere. The look : matte and natural, groomed - but not overtly glamorous.
身為英國名校Royal College of Art的榮譽校友,Matthew Miller本季以「新一代富豪」為主題,延續了上個世代的剪裁輪廓和材質,卻以更貼近雅痞生活的服裝設計重新演繹新一代的富豪印象,讓單車服裝或空軍外套成了新的貴族潮流。而髮型總監Chie Sato則選擇以帶點凌亂的微捲髮在衝突感中詮釋「新一代富豪」的意象。
"New money style waves." Head of Team, Chie Sato
As one of Stoke-on-Trent's fi nest and former alumni of the Royal College of Art, Matthew Miller took on 'Nouveau Riche' as the theme, 'harnessing the shapes and fabrics of prior generations, modernity and history clash as classic silhouettes like biker and bomber jackets are remade with utilitarian details.'
The hair story - a considered, uniform texture setting a stark contrast against the angular nature of the collection.
奢華的男裝品牌Baartmans & Siegel則轉向1970年代的紐約哈林區尋找靈感,多元種族的文化融爐下,創造了哈林區欣欣向榮的生命力,而髮型總監Cos Sakkas也從這個時代背景在髮型上延伸,以當時舞廳普遍的穿搭為範本,以捲髮帶出華麗的樣貌,卻不失自然的蓬鬆感。
"Spanish Harlem meets Pimp Daddy. 70's New York comes to London Town." Head of Team, Cos Sakkas
From the Anglo-Dutch team behind luxury label Baartmans & Siegel, comes a collection steeped in 70's New York 'Spanish Harlem', with its rich mix of cultures and vibes. With an eclectic mix of models, the hair was an inspired clash of glamour, movement and volume - deliberately working with the natural texture and giving more, more, more!