- TEXT BY Angel Chou
- POSTED 2016/01/01
從素雅經典的造型延伸,TONI&GUY的藝術外景造型團隊融入時尚趨勢與創意,巧手打造時尚又實用的髮型。
The TONI&GUY Artistic and session teams comprising of the best hairdressing talent from around the world, created the hair looks for over 30 shows. From the simple and classic through to statement making styles.
Giles的時裝秀絕對是倫敦時裝週裡討論度最高的一場,地點選在歷史悠久的英國國宴廳,精緻的壁畫與建築結構散發濃濃的古典主義氛圍,配上精彩的名模陣容,令觀眾大飽眼福。
TONI&GUY藝術團隊的總監Indira Schauwecker搭配Giles 2016春夏的服飾風格,以貼近頭髮的法式編髮重現都鐸王朝時期女士隱藏在貴重假髮下的髮型。Indira刻意抽出臉龐的髮絲並刮蓬髮尾,創造凌亂、不規則的時尚感。
With a ”who’s who” list of models walking, set against the historic backdrop of Banqueting House, the GILES show was the talk of LFW. Head of team Indira Schauwecker and the Session Team created messy, irregular French plaits close to the scalp, which represented the hairstyle worn under the extravagant wigs of the Tudor period.
在Paul Costelloe時裝秀所見的髮辮洋溢年輕活力,為呼應服裝設計使用硬挺的太空棉材質,Cos Sakkas結合兩串髮辮,上下交疊,做出曲線,讓髮型與服裝在輪廓上相互呼應。
Pam Hogg 2016春夏時裝把觀眾帶到一個沒有律法規範的國度,融合了個樣的種族文化,激盪出令人驚豔的設計。Indira Schauwecker由此取靈感,在髮型上同樣使用搶眼的造型,呈現多彩多姿的種族融合,如馬戲團團員般狂野、不受限的髮型設計十分呼應Pam Hogg的創作風格。
The braids at Paul Costelloe reflected the youthful inspired materials, such as neoprene, used throughout the collection. London Hairdresser of the Year Cos Sakkas and team created height at the front and then gathered the remaining hair into two structured plaits, one on top of each other, which were attached together with hair grips.
隨興慵懶的未完成波紋是時裝週的髮型常客,在倫敦時裝週中,Jean-Pierre Braganza和House of Holland都選擇以此造型搭配服裝,前者選擇較為清爽的大波浪;後者則使用較多的髮品創造髮絲動感。
Loose effortless curls were the order of the day at both Jean-Pierre Braganza and House of Holland. Jean-Pierre Braganza opted for clean, big beautiful waves, while House of Holland wanted a more lived-in curl which made use of label.m Souffle to give a slightly greasy look to the hair roots.
比丸子頭小一點的小包子髮髻絕對是2016年春夏最時尚的趨勢,從Judy Wu和Tata Naka的時裝秀上便能窺知一二。Tata Naka的髮型團隊將前側與頭頂部分的頭髮編成髮辮,再透過扭轉的方法將兩串髮辮結合成凌亂、不規則形狀的小髮髻。
而Judy Wu時裝秀的髮型更大量運用蓬鬆效果的造型品,並且透過逆梳髮根打造蓬鬆的豐量感。
Buns and “huns” were out in force on the SS16 catwalks. From a loose bun at Judy Wu to a South American inspired “hun” seen at Tata Naka, one bun or another was making a strong appearance. The session team at Tata Naka used two rope braids from the front and top sections of hair which were twisted into messy irregular buns.
The buns at Judy Wu were created using label.m Volume Mousse, back brushed with a label.m Grooming Brush to create volume and height when secured into a bun.