- TEXT BY Angel Chou
- PHOTOGRAPHY BY Rachel Oates
- POSTED 2016/01/01
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2017年春夏時裝的設計如同一首頌嘆倫敦的詩篇,讚揚它的奢華,形容他如何它百納旅人,卻也道出它污穢幽暗的一面,設計師Edeline表示,「這季的時裝設計展現倫敦的全貌,是很有趣的系列作品!」
配合著服裝設計的理念,髮型的靈感來自街頭時尚,「青春活力」和「未完成感」是兩大關鍵,將時下女性最流行的丸子頭做了點扭曲,更增加時髦感。Sassoon團隊的領導人Damien Peers先將頭髮背離臉部的吹順,製造蓬鬆感,將丸子髮髻固定於頭頂,噴灑Sassoon Professional Motion Hold幫助支撐並創造自然質地。
The SS17 collection started with an idea of an 'ode' to London. "London is endlessly luxurious, yet homely and grimy all at the same time. I wanted to make a fun collection with a signature that is dynamic yet sound". Says Edeline
Hairstyle is youthful and undone, to highlight the street wise inspirations of the collection. Modern, casual knots were pulled to the top of the head for a modern finish.
"Hair was blow dried off of the face using Sassoon Professional Edit Body and then pulled into a knot at the top of the head. Sassoon Professional Motion Hold was used to keep the hair in place ensuring the texture remained natural." says Damien Peers, Sassoon Team Leader.
Sadie Clayton持續在春夏時裝的設計上探索冥想空間和時間的奧秘,搭配全像攝影的走秀舞台,展現超現實感。為要完美襯托服裝,Sassoon的團隊領導人Lee Nunn選擇平凡卻精心設計過的直髮造型,「年輕、質樸的髮型是我的首選,但是我想營造出幾天沒洗頭、髮根有點扁塌的自然感,反而更能凸顯服裝的亮點。」因此Lee Nunn使用Sassoon Professional Halo Hydrate 和Heat Shape兩樣產品,在頭髮上加點重量,並搭配大尺寸的髮捲創造自然紋理,最後則在髮根處塗抹Illuminating Oil。
The SS17 collection continues Sadie’s exploration of the ideas of headspace and the concept of time. This theme comes to life both through the collection and the holographic technology used to present the new collection. “Layers of Sassoon Professional Halo Hydrate and Heat Shape were worked into the hair to build a leaden feel. Irregular sections were then wrapped around a large barrel tong to create a natural texture. To finish the look, small amounts of water and Illuminating Oil were applied to the root." Says Lee Nunn, Sassoon Team Leader. The look feature a natural, youthful and ‘lived in’ finish, to allow for the brightness of the collection to really stand out.
「從捆綁中突破的革新」是Sid Neigum春夏時裝的設計理念,他試想,如果歷史上極具啟發性和影響力的女性穿越時空來到現代,她們會穿著什麼樣的服裝?Sid表示,在這個名人橫行的時代,紀念這些曾為了平權而奮鬥的女性是十分重要的。
Sassoon英國創的意總監Bruce Masefield身兼這場時裝秀的髮型領導人,為了營造時髦有型的現代女性風格,他特意將頭髮背離臉部,在兩側吹出輪廓,並在髮尾部分製造一點未完成的效果,增加自然動感。
The SS17 collection is about constraint, renewal, release and empowerment. Sid started with imagining how inspiration women throughout history and what these women would wear today "in a world crowded by celebrity it is important to remember those who fought for equality" says Sid.
"To achieve a chic modern finish, hair was blow dried off the face to achieve a small silhouette with a slightly undone texture to the back of the hair, creating natural movement." Says Bruce Masefield, UK Creative Director and Sassoon Team Leader.
YMC 2017年春夏時裝系列名為「Okoro」,靈感來自1960年代後期到1980年代時,深受英國文化影響的非洲藝術。從知名攝影師Malick Sidibé的紀錄片裡能看到西方時尚是如何深深地影響著非洲青年,例如音樂專輯Ethiopian Funk 45s都在英國音樂史上留名。Okoro系列正是在紀念這兩大文化相互交融下的絕妙火花。抽象的塗鴉、手工刺繡、絲質與提花織品是構成Okoro的基本要素,這些藝術性的紡織元素在每件服裝上起了畫龍點睛的功效。
Sassoon的團隊領導人Alessio Matta表示,「自然的質地和不過度設計的髮型在2017年成為主流,所以我希望打造很簡單、很輕鬆的髮型。」因此所有的男模都以短髮造型為主,並以Sassoon Professional Texture Refine在頭髮上創造霧面質地,並塑造出明顯的輪廓線條。
The 'Okoro' collection is inspired by the influx of African art that permeated British culture in the late 60s through to the early 80s. From the ground breaking photography of Malick Sidibé who documented how Western fashions influences African teenagers, to the Ethiopian Funk 45s and Cameroonian synth tracks that made an indelible mark on British music, 'Okoro' celebrates the cross-pollination of cultural artefacts between Britain and Africa.
Abstract discharge prints, hand stitched embroideries; silk and jacquard are key textiles in this collection and artisanal techniques punctuate the collection with intricate details transforming each garment. The Look is effortless and natural texture through the hair was back again this season. All models had short hair that was kept matte with added definition.
"We wanted the hair to exude the feeling of easy, natural and effortless styling. Sassoon Professional Halo Hydrate was applied to invisibly condition the hair, followed by Sassoon Professional Texture Refine which was added to leave the hair with a matte and more defined texture." says Alessio Matta, Sassoon Team Leader.