- TEXT BY Angel Chou
- PHOTOGRAPHY BY Matte Productions
- POSTED 2016/01/01
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Demoo Parkchoonmoo 2017年春夏時裝回歸基礎,以潔白的布料和單寧色系,在簡約的線條和幾何架構中,有力的述說「簡單就是美」。Oribe的首席外景造型師Kien Hoang以此為靈感,打造服貼又有光澤的時尚造型。正面看似細緻優雅,背面卻有Kien Hoang特意設計的不完美收尾,讓素雅的造型增添不少玩味。
Demoo Parkchoonmoo’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection goes back to basics with an abundance of structured textures, monotone geometrics, denim and white. With this in mind, Oribe Educator and lead stylist Kien Hoang created a sleek, but lived-in look for the runway. The modern chignon’s perfect middle part and slightly imperfect piecing in back combine to create a style that is complementary to the line’s minimalist theme.
◆ 使用尖尾梳將頭髮中分。
◆ 在頭髮兩側噴灑豐盈成型噴霧,向後梳攏成一低馬尾。
◆ 使用彈性繩固定馬尾,不用剪去多餘線頭。
◆ 噴灑抗熱吹順噴霧,並使用造型夾夾直。
◆ 將馬尾分成兩部分,將第一部分梳成髮髻,使用剩餘的彈性繩固定。
◆ 第二部分的覆蓋在髮髻上,同樣用彈性繩固定。
◆ 使用U型夾替髮髻進行微調。
◆ 噴灑鬆感質地噴霧於全頭,用手在髮型表面挑出髮絲創造自然感。
◆ 以抗潮順髮噴霧進行最後微調。
春夏兩季的A Détacher時裝展現了生命狂暴、獨立的一面,青春最真摯純粹的面貌在服裝上嶄露無遺。這個框出臉部輪廓的髮編出自首席外景造型師Kien Hoang之手,從秋冬兩季的街頭時尚延伸,本季的髮辮更富自然感,彷彿少女們剛起床,耳鬢的頭髮因著摩擦而帶點毛躁,不修邊幅的凌亂感更切和服裝主題。
A Détacher’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection is all about capturing life’s wildness and independence. Organic and youthful to effortlessly communicate the fresh vibe of the clothing line, the face-and-neck-framing braids created by Oribe Educator and lead stylist Kien Hoang were originally spotted by A Détacher designer Mona Kowalska on the streets of New York City. An evolution of last season’s street-wear hairstyle, this season’s ear-to-ear plaits were made fuzzy, as if the model woke up and had to rush out the door.
◆ 噴灑豐盈成型噴霧打底,並將頭髮分為四區。
◆ 塗抹反光蠟,並在四個分區上編上反股加辮。
◆ 在每一束編髮上使用小橡皮筋固定,再次塗抹反光蠟於髮尾增加光澤。
◆ 輕揉髮辮創造毛躁質地。
如果有哪個品牌能重現電影《早餐俱樂部, 1985》裡,高中少男少女們青春蕩漾的服裝,絕對非Band of Outsiders莫屬。在2017年的春夏時裝設計上,設計師秀出許多寬鬆針織衫、郵差外套等oversize的服裝,完美演繹了當時高中生酷愛的「不合身」裝扮的迷人之處。Oribe的首席外景造型師Joey George從知名攝影師Wolfgang Tillmans的攝影作品中尋找靈感,以自然捲般的波浪髮展現鄰家女孩清新的氣質,以襯托Band of Outsiders特色十足的青春時裝。
If there was a modern-day version of the 1985 classic The Breakfast Club, the Band of Outsiders Spring/Summer 2017 line would be a perfect representation of its aesthetic. Inspired by the classic misfit, the designers’ comeback collection features statement pieces like letterman jackets and oversized knits that run the gamut of high school personalities. Oribe Educator and lead stylist Joey George used this personality-driven theme and took inspiration from a series of portraits by photographer Wolfgang Tillmans to create girl-on-the-go looks with products that encourage the hair’s natural texture.
◆ 以前置噴霧將頭髮噴濕,塗抹波浪消光霜創造自然波紋。
◆ 用手撥乾頭髮,讓髮絲不致於過度毛躁。
◆ 自然分出髮線,不需過於工整。
◆ 將頭髮分為四區,編上鬆鬆的髮辮並使用造型夾加熱。
◆ 待頭髮冷卻後,用手指將髮辮梳開,從髮中至髮尾塗抹空氣微調霜創造質地線條。
向藝術家Peggy Guggenheim在1943年舉辦的展覽Exhibition by 31 Women致敬,Jenny Packham 2017春夏時裝以31位時髦又具影響力的女性為靈感,從墨西哥畫家Frida Kahlo到女星Elizabeth Taylor,在服裝上大聲讚揚這些女性的作為。首席外景造型師Kien Hoang也將同樣的理念貫穿在髮型設計上,以朝氣蓬勃的丸子頭展現女性的青春活力。
In a nod to Peggy Guggenheim’s 1943 “Exhibition by 31 Women,” the Jenny Packham Spring/Summer 2017 collection paid homage to 31 iconic and stylish women of today. The various designs were inspired by everyone from Frida Kahlo and Elizabeth Taylor to Stevie Nicks, and the hair, styled consistently across the 31 models, let the designs shine. Oribe Educator and lead stylist Kien Hoang created a youthful play on the effortless top knot to complement, not overpower, the line’s statement pieces.
◆ 將頭髮從耳前至頂部皇冠區分為兩區,從後側開始操作。
◆ 噴灑抗熱吹順噴霧與蓬鬆打底噴霧,幫助強韌髮根。
◆ 把後側頭髮向上梳順,以彈性繩綁一高馬尾在皇冠區,勝於彈性繩不用剪掉。
◆ 從髮根至髮尾塗抹浮華澎湃慕斯與鬆感質地噴霧,創造自然動感,將此分區纏繞於馬尾上,用剩餘彈性繩固定。
◆ 將馬尾扭轉成一高髮髻,不需收尾,用U型夾進型固定。
◆ 噴灑少許抗潮順髮噴霧在臉周,輕揉頭髮創造自然凌亂感。
◆ 使用空氣微調霜進行微調。
各處點綴著紅藍白三色,無論是夾克外套或是迷彩軍裝,處處顯現了美國風情,這也正是Veronica Beard在2017春夏時裝的靈感來源。首席外景造型師Kelly Peach從1970年代發想,創造現代版的浪漫波浪髮,帶點凌亂的髮型收尾搭配清楚明顯的旁分線條,迸出精彩火花。
Camo, blazers and subtle hints of red, white and blue—the Veronica Beard Spring/Summer 2017 collection is pure, classic Americana. Beaming with body and shine, Oribe Educator and lead stylist Kelly Peach created a romantic, modernized take on a classic 1970s wave, featuring a severe side part and messier finish.
◆ 噴灑蓬鬆打底噴霧,吹乾後能強韌髮根。
◆ 將頭髮縱向分成均等三區。
◆ 將中間分區運用一吋半的電棒水平操作,加熱塑型並夾起冷卻。
◆ 左右兩側同樣使用一吋半的電棒,遠離臉部,向後操作。
◆ 冷卻後移去髮夾,噴灑抗潮順髮噴霧於全頭後,以Mason Pearson的梳子將頭髮梳順,增加光澤與支撐度。
◆ 在髮根噴灑質地鬆感噴霧,創造動感。
◆ 噴灑海灘反光噴霧在手上,進行細部微調。
2017春夏的Brandon Maxwell更具實穿性,橄欖綠和霧粉色相互交映。為了展現每一位模特兒獨特的個人風采,首席外景造型師James Pecis量身打造不同質地樣貌的髮型,不過他最鍾愛的是永不退流行的柔亮高馬尾。
This season, Brandon Maxwell’s collection was, as the designer put it, a bit more wearable. With shades of olive and petal pink, the collection introduced a covert sexiness to the Spring/Summer 2017 runway. Because of the multiple hair textures seen on the catwalk, lead stylist James Pecis took this as an opportunity to celebrate individuality and movement, however the high, tight ponytail was a style favorite.
◆ 在頂部皇冠區創造一鑽石分區,作為馬尾固定區。
◆ 在髮根處噴灑蓬鬆打底噴霧。
◆ 梳整頭髮後,分一吋分區的髮片再次噴灑蓬鬆打地噴霧,將頭髮集中於鑽石分區。
◆ 使用彈性繩固定一馬尾,在固定一馬尾在外層,增加蓬鬆度。
◆ 使用造型夾夾直頭髮,並以皮革蓋住彈性繩。
◆ 噴灑精緻成型霧微調定型。